Splendid climb of Kisdon Hill followed by a leisurely stroll

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THIS splendid walk in Upper Swaledale combines a short sharp climb of the isolated Kisdon Hill and a leisurely stroll alongside the embryonic River Swale.

Park in the car park at Muker and then walk past the Farmers Arms heading uphill. Just beyond there are two options, take the left hand fork through two buildings, leading directly up hill, to join a lane. This is the track to Kisdon Hill.

For 1km the lane climbs steadily, at one point a gate to your right looks tempting but keep to the farm track. The track leads to Kisdon Farm. Pass the farm to the left and head up a field alongside the dry stone wall. The track is more of a wide path here. The track enters a large field, follow the path as it bends left/west to a final gate before entering the open hillside.

The climbing is mainly done, take time to turn back and enjoy the fantastic views down Swaledale and south over Great Shunner Fell. With the path (a bridleway) flattening as it passes over the plateau of Kisdon Hill continue on it until meeting a second gate and dry stone wall. It is here a faint path leaves the bridlepath and heads 600m to the high point of Kisdon Hill.

Keep the wall to your left and you cannot go wrong even though the terrain is rough and often boggy. The highest point of Kisdon Hill is 30m on the west side of the wall marked by a tall boy cairn. Return the same way to the bridleway and gate.

The bridlepath now skirts the hillside as it drops gradually in a northerly bearing with wonderful views across Upper Swaledale. One-and-a-half kilometres from the gate near the summit the track arrives at a road. 200m further it divides, take the right fork in to the village of Keld.

There is a community coffee shop here, very welcome. Keld can be popular with long distance walkers, it is the meeting point of the south to north Pennine Way and west to east Coast to Coast.

Turn right at the foot of the village and join a track heading south east. After 200m take the stepped path to your left dropping down and cross the River Swale. Take the wide track past Kisdon Force (an attractive waterfall) and continue the steady climb.

The track has excellent views over the River Swale as you follow it initially for 1km to Swinner Gill before it then drops steeply back to the river. Continue alongside the river for one-and-a-half kilometres to a footbridge. Cross the bridge, turn right, through two stiles and on to a paved path.

This is the famous Hay Meadows, a beautiful sea of wild flowers in May and June. Continue along the paved path (please do not leave it) to enter Muker. Here choose between the Tea Rooms or the Farmers Arms, both good.

Fact Box:

Distance: Roughly 7 miles.

Height to Climb: 370m (1,215 feet).

Start: SD 909979. Park in the car park or the cleared spaces roadside of the village.

Difficulty: Good tracks throughout with the exception of the detour to the summit of Kisdon Hill.

Refreshments: Muker Tea Rooms and the Farmers Arms in Muker are both good.

Be prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer 30) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass (essential on this walk). You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk. Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.

Jonathan runs Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales:

• He has written 3 books on walking in the Dales; ‘The Yorkshire 3 Peaks’, ‘The Dales 30’ mountains and the long distance path ‘The Bracken Way. Buy them direct from Where2walk

• Jonathan runs Navigation Training Courses. The first Beginners Course of 2026 is on Saturday March 14th from Long Preston, near Settle.

• NEW. You can also buy Dales 30 T Shirts and caps from the new Dales 30 website.

Where2walk.co.uk features 100s of walks with descriptions across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs. Visit the website for details of all these walks, guiding days and navigation course.

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